This much we know to be true: In the 1920s, Tijuana was the place to be. Prohibition was the law of the land north of the US-Mexico border, but along Avenida Revolución, there was smoking, drinking, dancing, gambling, and assorted other vices on offer.
The avenue boasted “the world’s longest bar”—215 feet, staffed by ten bartenders and 30 waitresses—and a bordello topped with a red windmill, the Molino Rojo. Scores of clubs and restaurants beckoned to Hollywood’s biggest stars. Lon Chaney and John Barrymore dined at the San Francisco, while the boxer Jack Johnson held court at the Black-only Newport. Clark Gable, Rita Hayworth, W.C. Fields were all regulars at the various restaurants owned by one or the other of the Cardini brothers; Alex and Caesar were the best-known hosts of this never-ending, blocks-long party.
And amidst all this indulgence and showmanship, there was a salad.
Perhaps only this moment of determined decadence could have created the Caesar salad. In the 1920s, lettuce-based salads were trendy, but what was on offer in Tijuana was something different than the iceberg and butter lettuces available in the States.
role: Author outlet: Gastro Obscura publication date: May 2023 category:Food
