The Demon Spread

Wisconsin, 1966: An elderly woman gets into her car in Sheboygan for the 100-mile trip south on Highway 41. She stops just across the Illinois border at a gas station, where she hands a wad of cash to the attendant. She puts a large brown box into the trunk. On the way home, she drives slowly and carefully, worried that she might be pulled over. She is smuggling notorious contraband: yellow oleomargarine, a butter substitute outlawed for more than 70 years in America’s Dairyland.

On this episode of Criminal, the invention, criminalization and redemption of “the demon spread.”

role: Historian
outlet: Criminal
publication date: June 2024
category: Food

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